Throughout my journey through menswear, there have been a few aspects I have come to love. Based on where you find this think piece, it is clear that one of those things is custom suiting. Since I first came across it, I have been a huge advocate for it, whether it be for men or women. Clothing is all about each person’s personal style and flavor, and custom suits embody that idealogy. So, If you have pondered on getting a custom suit, I would like to share my experience with them, and why I think you should pull the trigger.
I got my first custom suit as a gift from my mother, in my senior year of high school from an online clothier called Black Lapel. Because I already had a grey suit, I knew that a navy suit would be the best choice in terms of versatility(pro tip: Navy and Medium grey suits are the most versatile suits you can own, and can be worn to almost any occasion). Because I had a color picked out, all I had to do was pick out the details.I spent weeks scouring the internet trying to decipher what my custom suit should look like. When it comes to custom suits, there are so many options, I almost got overwhelmed. Looking back, I don’t think getting a custom suit without an expert opinion is a good idea, especially your first one. Although I love the suit, and it is timeless, there are some things I would have done differently, especially if I had an expert’s opinion. That is a huge reason I created my brand SIR Custom, to give men and women a place to learn about and enjoy custom suiting the way that I do.
Back to the point, after three or four weeks of back and forth, I was finally ready to commit to a look. I went with a navy linen and cotton blend(in hindsight that was an excellent fabric choice, especially because I live here in Texas), two-button, peak-lapel, single-breasted jacket. I’ll drop a picture below. I absolutely loved that suit! I even got purple stitching on the buttonholes to match my girlfriend’s dress. I became so enamored with it the fact that I designed the suit, and I embarked on a journey to figure out what I liked about them so much. From my experience, it comes down to 3 things:
Fit
Although I did the first experience myself, the suit came out decently okay in terms of fit. I admit that it was not perfect, which is one of the reasons I think going to a professional for your first one is the better route.
menswear space, I have learned that everyone’s body is different. Most people have uneven arms or a slightly off posture. Getting a custom suit allows for the garment to be made for all of those unique features. For me, my right arm is almost an inch longer than my left, so on a suit off the rack, I always have to get that alteration, whereas my custom suits come in fitting perfectly. This fitting aspect has especially been helpful to my odder fitting customers, which consist of a lot of guys who like to work out. Men that work out tend to have an abnormal chest-to-waist ratio(For context, American suits off the rack are typically made with a 6-inch drop, meaning that the chest size is 6 inches larger than the waist size. Men with broad chests have an extremely hard time finding jackets that can fit their broad chest and arms, while also have in a torso that fits them, due to their waist being so much smaller. This has led to the emergence of stretch suits. While that is one way to get around it, I believe that having a suit made to fit you is a much better alternative. For starters, the fabric selection is better: the world is your oyster. Not to mention, that suit is made especially for you, by you. You’re there for the entire creative process, and you get to watch that creation come to life.
Individual Style
As I mentioned before, having a suit made gives you the ability to try out what you like. Whether you want to try wide lapels, a different button stance, or even just a relaxed silhouette, a custom allows you to experiment with things you don’t get with a suit off the rack. I personally love peak lapels and get them on just about every suit I have made. Because the style is not that common, I have only seen them on a handful of suits, and typically the lapel is much to trim for my liking. A custom suit allows for me to get what I want.
I have also utilized custom suits as a way to test different silhouettes. When I first embarked on this journey, I loved slim-fitting suits. As a slim guy in the late 2010’s slim fit was all the rage. I used to get my pants as tight as possible, as long as I could move, and get my foot through to the bottom. I have since grown, and like my suits a little more relaxed. Now, by no means do I think my suits are what we would call relaxed today, but they do give me more room to move freely. I have recently become recently fond of pleats. All these things wouldn’t be possible with just suits off the rack, mostly because those suits tend to go with current style trends. You don’t have too much say in look of the suit.
Relationships
Although there are many reasons why I love custom suits, my favorite has to be the relationships and connections that are made. The relationship between a man and his tailor is one that I believe should be maintained until we die and move on to the
next phase of life. Finding a good tailor makes your life so much more streamlined, especially once you guys have worked together one or two times. Not only does a custom clothier keep track of your measurements, as well as any adjustments that were made, but they also get to learn more about you. This gives them the ability to pick things out for that know you would like, almost like a consultant for your suits! Some of my clients have become good friends of mine, friends I plan on having for the rest of life. I know what all of them like, as well as they like them to fit. Some guys just text me what they want, and then in 4 weeks they have a suit waiting for them. This is the pinnacle of luxury, having relationships in place that ensure you get what you want done efficiently.
Custom suits have plenty of upsides. From being able to get the perfect fit, to coming across amazing friendships, going custom gives the ability to see life on the other side: the side of luxury. For me, luxury pertains to anything that gives our life an extra boost. This could be seeing new parts of the world, all the way to making the things we see every day just a little more personalized and nuanced. I believe custom suits are the epitome of said luxury.
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